Posts tagged "ireland"

An Evening in Galway

After bussing to the train station, training to the airport, flying to Ireland, bussing to the train station, and training to Galway, Kate and I dropped off our stuff at the hostel and roamed a bit around Galway’s Claddagh completely unencumbered by time. 

The Claddagh is an area in Galway where the Corrib River meets Galway bay. An old fishing village, it now is home to a huge population of mute swans.

Now, my initial reactions to my very short amount of time spent in Ireland revolve around the word perfect: slow, relaxed, friendly, sheep, amazing pewter sky that comes with a possibility of rain, this awesome yellow plant that I seriously considered smuggling back to Germany. I loved it. And our evening walking around Galway just added to my love. 

But we only roamed for so long until we decided that we should really find a pub to enjoy a Guinness and some fish and chips in. First attempt: Kitchen’s closed, but try the next pub up the way. 

We walk to the next pub: Kitchen’s closed. It’s after eight… But try this pub that’s up the hill, around, down the hill and there it be. 

We walk up the hill, down the hill and find Murty Rabbitts which had a sign proudly, and much to our relief, stating that their kitchen was open until 10pm. And so we walk in, up to the bar…

“Well, how about that. Hiya chickens!”

Oh, and I adore the bartender already. We locate a menu and a table, and quickly get orders in for a Guinness. “Sláinte!” Wow, they really aren’t kidding. Guinness is better in Ireland!

I was also informed that my most favorite bartender was the fisherman. And did my fish ever put up a fight about getting caught. Which is why I felt really quite bad that I couldn’t finish my fish or chips. Mmm. So good. But just so big. Like practically an American portion big.

Could I please move to Galway and become a local at Murty Rabbitts? I quite enjoy the nickname “chicken.” And just the overwhelming Irish attitude of you walk into my pub, you are now my friend which means, I shall commence making fun of you and your very tiny stomach. 


Why am I always surprised?

Fact: I am a mac user. My brain works like a mac. My brain does not work like a PC, no matter how many times they try to emulate what a mac does. 

Fact: I lived in China for a year. A friend of mine from the States asked me what the keyboards looked like. I thought he was crazy. Um…they look like American keyboards. Just with some extra characters on a couple keys. No big deal.

Fact: I lived in the Czech Republic for three months, and throughout the duration of those three months, I frequently had to run to a Czech person to figure out how to create an @-sign. Didn’t matter how many times they showed me, I was completely incapable. Frequently, I ended up googling “at szmbol” “at symbol” in order to find one. And still, to this day, I have absolutely no idea how one toggles back and forth amongst the FOUR options on a key.

Fact: I currently live in Germany where the keyboard is also whack-a-doodle. Extra umlauts. Symbols tossed about haphazardly. Here’s an attempt at typing, one of the first evenings I spent in the country — no alcohol involved.

“Moving! ZAZ° wow….or, um…YAY! I saw some boys plazing in a fountain todaz and I thought of when I went with zou guzs to Beida and Hunter ended up plazing in the lake. Miss zou! )Also…crap, thatäs different too! (Also, I gave up on interchanging mz z#s and y’s. And a couple other things. Whz must kezboards be so complicated around the world_! ooooh….whereäs mz question mark……? found it!”

Fact: In Ireland, I had a 50-50 chance at getting a keyboard that had the letters still printed upon its keys. I failed. Do you know how hard it is to locate an @ or a # when you can’t figure out where it is other than it’s not a shift-2 or shift-3, respectively? And to google I go.

Fact: How would I survive foreign countries without the ability to google the symbols I need to get into my Facebook?


On the search for coffee

“Coffee” should not be stirred into your hot water. It is just NOT ok. Ever. Instant coffee is made for baking coffee flavored goodies. Not for waking you up in the morning. World, you are wrong. 

Which is why I had to find an actual coffee shop in Galway. Because instant coffee is not going in my body. I have standards. Standards that mean I import the bean to all the countries I live in that just don’t understand. You do not stir “coffee” into your hot water! That does not make a cup of coffee the size of my head that will make the fact that I just had to crawl out of bed better!

And so Kate and I strolled about Galway early in the morning because in addition to believing that one does not just stir “coffee” into your hot water, I also believe that one should get up early in cities one has never been to, or really any city. Seeing the city at the crack of dawn is different than seeing it in the late afternoon. 

I had never seen the sunrise before I traveled to Nkhotakota, Malawi, with my friend Rachel. It had always been a part of her growing up that her dad woke the family for at least one sunrise during any trip they took. And so I woke for a sunrise. And I’ve fallen in love with the concept ever since.

Rather than the annoyance of pushing through crowds of tourists, one sidesteps delivery men and street cleaners. Rather than beelines for pubs, one queues for the long sought after proper cup of coffee, one made directly from an actual bean and without the use of a spoon. 

This is not a hard concept, world. I don’t care what method you use to brew coffee: Turkish, Vietnamese, Italian, French — and those are just the presses and pots that I own. You do not stir “coffee” into your hot water!


The Cliffs of Moher: as close to a heart attack as I’ve ever been

It was all my idea. I’ve always wanted to go to Ireland and to the Cliffs of Moher. They were a contender for the new seven natural wonders of the world after all. How could you not want to go?! 

Prior to dropping us off, the bus driver parted with the words: “There had better be 31 people back on this bus at 3:00. Make sure to only get close to the edge with a friend that you really, really trust holding on to you! See you at 3!”

Um….

So you start off your journey to the Cliffs by walking left off the bus around the new visitor center that’s built into the hill. 

And obviously the view of the Cliffs is absolutely astonishing.

Even if you are on tiptoe trying to see over the stone barriers set up. But as you keep walking, you realize, there are people all the way along these Cliffs. Even after you come upon a memorial marker commemorating the deaths of everyone at the Cliffs of Moher. This marker causes you to temporarily stop and think before you scale the stone barrier leaving nothing between you and certain death. 

I have never had a fear of heights. The Cliffs of Moher rendered me paralyzed. You can see four points out of the Cliffs in these pictures. I made it around the arch of the nearest cliff before I was unable to move forward. 

There’s approximately three feet between you and THE EDGE of a cliff that soars upward of 200 meters above the Atlantic Ocean. And there’s nothing between you and THE EDGE of a cliff that soars upward of 200 meters above the Atlantic Ocean to keep you from soaring into the Atlantic Ocean. And it’s windy. Really, really windy.

The woman in front of me went about three feet farther than I did before quickly turning around, looking at me and going, “I think that’s about as far as I need to go.” I looked past her, “Yeah, yeah I agree” and started to lean back away from the edge slowly. She quickly headed back to the safety of the barriers. 

I slid down onto the dirt and practically crawled into a sitting position for a quick shot, possibly my last, before sliding my way along the path etched out of the cliff. 

Once back behind the barriers that were safely keeping me on land, I realized I was starting to become oxygen deprived and should likely start breathing again. 

We continue up to O’Brien’s Tower, recovering from sheer terror now that the stone barriers are guarding me from certain death. “I’m freaking out! I can’t stop!”

The ironic thing is that I was concerned that I’d be stuck on a platform the entire time, unable to get an unobstructed view of the Cliffs of Moher in all their glory. 

Word to the wise: DO NOT COME HERE DURING THE PEAK OF TOURIST SEASON. There were maybe around 100 people there while we were. You were able to risk your neck out on the dirt trail along the Cliffs without having to bypass too many people. I cannot even imagine having a thousand people there on a day and trying to stay alive exploring these glorious Cliffs.


Oooooh, Low Tide. Riiiight.

Kate and I decided to take a tour bus to the Cliffs of Moher on recommendation from the night front desk guy at our hostel. Well, actually he said “Go to Aran Islands, but if you still want to do the Cliffs, take a tour. You’ll see more of Ireland than on a regular bus.” As I had my heart set on the Cliffs of Moher, we took the latter suggestion. (Although, upon reviewing Leap Year which I now know was filmed on the Aran Islands….not sure I made the right choice. They look amazing. Searching for more cheap plane tickets to go back.)

So we’re on the tour bus, waiting for an hour for more people from Dublin to arrive to join us (huh, didn’t know that was an option….) mildly concerned that our 5pm arrival time back in Galway is going to be getting pushed back which might be an issue considering that our train leaves at 6:05, but I’m sure it’ll be fine. 

Once we finally get going, our first stop outside of Galway is the Dunguaire Castle. 

Which looks like it was built in a bog. Odd, but maybe it was the close access to peet that motivated that decision. But we walk around the castle, check out the town of Kinvara and continue on with the tour.

Then as we’re walking around the gift shop at the Cliffs, I see a postcard similar to this image:

Huh, I guess at one time there was water around the castle. That’s really quite pretty. I guess it makes since that the water levels are low here. I know London is in the middle of a two year drought. Guess Ireland’s affected too. 

At the end of the day as we’re circling around back towards Galway, we again pass Dungaire Castle. And this time it resembles the postcard image. 

Kate grabs my arm, laughing, “It was low tide when we were here! It’s not a swamp!”

Oooooh, right. Low tide. 


Grikes & Clints

Terms I just learned while attempting to write about Ireland’s Burren landscape:

Karst: geological formation made up of layers of bedrock like limestone, as is the case in the Burren. Had I made it to Guilin, China, I would have already learned this term. Still gotta go there. The Burren is one of the largest karst landscapes in Europe. Interesting, considering it’s located in one of the tiniest countries. 

Grikes: crazy cracks in the limestone rocks dividing the limestone into

Clints: individual rocks. What I would like to know is if I can apply these terms to the “grikes” I’ve been putting into dishes for the past three days and all the “clints” I’ve had to clean up off the floor and the dishwasher and the table and the chair and under the sink and….yes, I feel like a complete walking disaster. It’s been a long three days of “ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!”

But to give you a proper mental image, you have this Burren craziness going on inside a circle made by a bunch of small towns.

And in between the limestone and the towns you have grazing land for sheeps and cows. 

And in between the sheeps and cows you have ancient tombs and old churches. This one being the Poulnabrone Dolmen, where over 30 bodies were buried many years ago. 

Old Irish stone architecture is totally awesome. How on earth do people have that much patience to get all the stones to line up perfectly?! 

But what “grikes” my mind into “clints” would be the fact that these stone walls were built with the purpose of easy disassembly and reassembly for whenever farmers would need to move their animals between pastures. Are we kidding me? Easy!? Outstanding spacial reasoning must be a segment in the Irish DNA or something. 

And as you can see, there was some crazy weather moving in across the Burren as we were driving through. 

Completely amazing that the main rain seen this day was only while we were on the bus. I mean, virtually no rain — on the West Coast of Ireland! That’s amazing! Ireland was excited I was there too, and unlike most countries that bring the crazy too me, Ireland kept it away. Mostly. 


Yet Another Missed Connection

I have a near 100% rate at missing any and every form of public transportation I run after. It’s typically not even my train that I’m running after. 

I ran after a train going the wrong direction and also a train only carrying logs in the Czech Republic.

I missed every single train connection when I visited Germany in October 2010. Ok, almost every one.

It’s what I do best and after each and every train pulls out of the station, I and/or the friends I’m with are left standing on the platform going, now what? We’re on our own, in a foreign country where we may or may not speak the language so well and now have to figure out a way to get where we need to be. 

And then there’s Ireland.

Our lovely tour guide was most definitely on Irish time and rather than getting us back at around 5pm, we got back at 6pm. And we have luggage waiting in the left luggage room at the station. 

As we’re pulling into Galway, the driver tells us that the train is just coming in; there’s only one track. If we run for it, we might be able to make it and if we don’t, meet him here and he’ll get us hooked up with a ride back into Dublin. 

And so, I hand my left luggage ticket to Kate. She’ll grab our bags, I’ll stand in the door of the train so it waits for her. 

The bus doors open, we storm out racing as fast as we can to the train station.

The back door right next to the left luggage is closed! We have to run all the way to the main entrance. 

We pound onto the platform. “Girls! Dublin?!” YES! “Get on now! First door!” WE HAVE LUGGAGE! 

Kate races down to the left luggage door. I race along the side of the train, ready to block the ability of the door close. Other guards keep telling me to get on the train — We have luggage! 

“He’s gonna let it go.” 

I turn my head and see Kate pounding on the left luggage door. 

The train doors close.

Crap. Another raced after train connection that I missed. 

The first man that told us to get on the train has made it down the platform by this time. 

“Girls, what happened!?” We were on a tour and it got back over an hour late… “AH, no worries. We’ll getcha all set up. Let’s see about getting you your luggage.” 

And he goes and talks to another man on the platform.

“Hiya girls, you’ve got some bags in here I take it?” Yes, two of them. “A’right. Let’s get them for you.” 

He goes over, unlocks the door, jumps over the counter, gets the bags and then does it all in reverse. “Let’s go talk to the bus manager and see if we can get you on a bus to Dublin.” 

He leads us over to the bus manager, explains that we just missed our train to Dublin. 

“Have you tickets girls?” Yes, right here. “Let me put my name on them, just in case there’s a problem.” 

He heads up to the bus, explains to the driver. “Half of, girls. Have a good trip.” 

Kate and I sit on the fence just outside the bus, regaining our breath. 

Wow. I have missed a lot of connections and never once has anyone HELPED me. Don’t make me leave Ireland, Kate. Please don’t make me!

We board the bus and start towards Dublin. At about two and half hours in, I turn to Kate. I just remembered. All the buses between Dublin and Galway were like five hour rides. It’s why we took the train in the first place….

But I was incorrect. About thirty minutes later we were pulling into Dublin, where we were dropped off at the station and started trudging towards our hostel. 

Hey, remember how that guy wanted something from the office in Galway, and the guard said it was all closed til Monday? If we had been any later, we wouldn’t have been able to get our bags until Monday. That was the last train of the day…. 


The Streets of New Dubdon

There are few cities that I have immediately felt at home in while visiting. The main two being New York and London. And then I went to Dublin and discovered that the two cities had merged into an amazing combination that was better than both of them on their own. 

River Liffey divides the city into North and South Dublin, similar to the Thames in London. And similarly, it has an outstanding river walk, but unlike London with Southbank getting taken over by tourists too often, Dublin’s is a bit easier to maneuver, just avoiding those out for their morning run. 

Swap the red for yellow and Dublin even has London beat with their double decker busses — sorry, after a year in China, the color red tends to make me slightly nauseous. 

Christchurch Cathedral: I’m torn between being annoyed that I have to pay €3 to see a church and knowing that by paying €3 to see a church, I’m seeing a church that’s not fallen into disrepair. 

I do love cities that have the ability to put in a park that is able to transport you out of busy city life, if even only for a lunch break. St. Stephen’s Green with a cup of Tim Horton’s coffee? Whoa, and Toronto is in on the city merger as well. 

And while the city is uniquely Dublin, I can’t help but be reminded of neighborhoods in New York that I’ve walked through — other than the traffic all being reversed.

And the fact that after a block of New York, you have a block that screams Ireland!

Can I move here? Please?


[16/52] Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin

[16/52] Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin


On Silence

I greatly enjoy cemeteries. Old ones. Unique ones. Ones without the uniform marble gravestones. And especially ones without idiots tourists living people. 

And so Kate and I braved the Dublin Bus system which, when researching Dublin, I found described as completely frustrating and confusing. I also found it interesting that I kept seeing the phrase “when the driver feels you’ve inserted the proper fare, he issues a ticket.” What, he just hears the coins drop in and goes, yep. That sounds about right? 

But we wait for our bus and I inform the driver that I’d like to go to Glasnevin Cemetery, not really knowing what stop that is. “€1.90 love.” I drop in the coins I have in my hand. It comes up as €1.40. I go to dig into my pocket for more change. “That’s plenty, love.” And out pops a ticket. 

Shut. Up. 

Ireland is the best country EVER! I don’t even have to pay full bus fair!?!

And so we start bussing along. 

Kate: “Um, do you know which stop we’re getting of at?”

Jenni: “Nope, that would be planning ahead. I was just going to keep a look out for a large cemetery.”

And so, eyes peeled, I followed the turns I had drawn down on the map and eventually saw a large wall that I determined looked like it should be surrounding a cemetery. Pressed the button to alert the driver of a stop, hopped off, bus passed and yay! First try! We got to the cemetery! 

And it starts to rain. 

But not for long.

And as Kate doesn’t have her cell on her, we have to stay within eye sight of each other. Not the easiest task with a short attention span that’s easily distracted by the next interesting celtic cross or angel. 

We roam and wander before heading back out to the bus stop to ride back into downtown Dublin for dinner. 

A lovely little break from the crazy of idiots tourists living people.